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Steve Ott and Emma Rawlings

Jobs for February

Let’s get started!
February is the month when we can finally get things moving outside on the veg plot and in the greenhouse too, as early sowings can at last be made. However, as always don’t be too eager to sow if the conditions are not quite right – wait a few more weeks for the soil to warm up

 

February at a glance

Sowing now...
• Lettuce
• Broad beans
• Early peas
• Onions
• Summer cabbage
• Chicory/endive
• Parsnip (if conditions allow)
• Radish (under cloches)
• Turnip
• Tomatoes
• Peppers
• Aubergines

Planting now...
• Onion sets
• Shallots
• Soft fruit
• Tree fruit
• Rhubarb
• Chinese and Jerusalem artichoke

Harvest now...
• Winter and savoy cabbage
• Leeks
• Kale
• Jerusalem artichokes
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Parsnips
• Cauliflowers
• Celeriac
• Chicory
• Winter radish
• Spinach
• Salsify
• Scorzonera
• Forced rhubarb
• Swedes

From store...
• Beetroot
• Carrots
• Potatoes
• Turnips
• Apples

Don't miss our exclusive offers on peas and beans, rhubarb, onion sets and asparagus on pages 80-81.

Fruit in brief

• Complete pruning of apples and pears, before the sap starts to rise and the buds burst. The last month for this is traditionally March, but the seasons seem to get earlier every year, so don’t get caught out.
• Cut autumn-fruiting raspberries down to ground level and chip the prunings. However, if there are any signs of disease it is better not to use the chippings as mulch or in the compost heap, but to dispose of them away from the garden.
• Spray peaches, nectarines and apricots against peach leaf curl using Murphy Traditional Copper Fungicide or Vitax Bordeaux Mixture.
• There is still time to plant tree and soft fruit (such as raspberries, gooseberries and currants). Bare-rooted plants should be planted before buds start to burst in the spring.

Broad beans

Settings peasBroad beans are among our hardiest crops and therefore one of the most suitable for an early sowing outdoors. When choosing a variety it is important to consider the likely height of the crop – many varieties are tall and top heavy by the time they produce a crop. The bonus however, is that they will usually produce a heavier yield than a more compact variety such as 'The Sutton'.
Sowing in double rows about 20cm (8in) apart, with 60cm (2ft) between the double rows helps plants become mutually supporting as they grow. You may still wish to use canes and string to provide further support if necessary. Sown now, you could be enjoying your first tasty pickings by the middle of June.

Broad beans are not too fussy when it comes to soil, but good drainage, some sunshine and a reasonably fertile site are an advantage. It is therefore acceptable to sow into ground which was manured the previous autumn, but this is not essential.

Mice will steal the seeds from the soil given the chance so to deter them cover the newly sown area with some fine mesh chicken wire or cloches. The latter will also keep off the worst of the weather.
Alternatively, sow into deep pots such as sweet pea pots or Rootrainers inside, planting out once the plants are well established. Dig in some general fertiliser a week before sowing or planting.



KG QUICKIES

• Firm in the roots of tall plants such as Brussels sprouts, which may have been lifted by frost.
• Continue digging and incorporating organic matter in areas where winter veg, such as savoy cabbage have been harvested.
• Plan your crop rotation (see page 50 for details) to ensure that related veg are planted together where possible to reduce diseases. Quick-growing crops such as salads however, can be sown between the rows of long-term crops to make best use of available space (see picture).
• If you did not get around to planting onions, shallots or garlic in the autumn, order sets now so that they arrive in plenty of time to go out once the soil conditions are right in March.


For lots more advice, see this month's issue, available to buy online!