Kitchen Garden - In the KG Pantry

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March 2010

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Radishes

In the KG Pantry
Marinating in a light vinaigrette is a great way of pickling and preserving crisp raw veg. Crunchy radishes plucked in their prime can be stored this way and make a tasty little accompaniment for salads. They don’t even need cooking – rinse and dry thoroughly, trim off the tops and root. Small radishes can be left whole, bigger ones sliced if desired. Toss in a teaspoon of salt and leave for five minutes. To prepare your pickling liquor, stir a spoonful of sugar into a sharp, light vinegar of your choice (white wine or cider are best), add a few whole black peppercorns, and if you like a bit of a kick, some dried chilli flakes. Squeeze as many radishes as you can into a sterilised jar. Cover completely with the vinegar and seal. Store somewhere cool and dark. Leave to mature for a couple of weeks before eating.

Sorrel

The bittersweet sorrel has a unique, refreshing taste. Young tender leaves can be eaten raw in salads, while mature leaves are best stripped off the bitter stem and gently cooked. To prepare, fold the leaves in half lengthways, then strip the stalks away along the length of the leaf. Like spinach, you don't need to cook sorrel in water – just place the washed leaves in a lidded pan and wilt down over a low heat.

Sorrel’s tangy, zesty flavour goes well with oily fish or chicken and has a natural affinity with eggs and soft creamy cheeses. Its sprightly taste can also be used to lift sauces and dressings.
To be honest though, sorrel is unlikely to be required for many meals. Its sharp bite comes from high levels of oxalic acid, so it should only be eaten in moderation anyway, which means you are likely to be left with unused leaves. The easiest way to preserve them is to simply wilt down and freeze. But a more interesting way to capture the kick of sorrel is to combine it with other seasonal leaves and herbs and make a pistou (see this month’s seasonal recipe).

Rhubarb

The prolific rhubarb is a tart taste of spring; enjoy it while you can! Forced or early stems can be enjoyed raw or lightly stewed as a base of many delicious desserts. To make a simple compote, wash, trim and cut the stalks into even-size chunks. Place in a lidded pan with a splash of orange juice and sprinkle of caster sugar. Place over a low heat and gently simmer until just tender. Adjust sweetness to taste with more sugar if necessary. The compote can then be spooned over ice cream or used in fools or crumbles. It also freezes well so can be stored ready for use later in the season when you yearn for rhubarb’s sharp and sticky sweetness.
Older, stringy stalks past their prime are best used up in chutneys; their sour taste blends perfectly with aromatic spices for a rather tasty accompaniment to hard cheeses and cold meats.
You will need about 2kg (4lb) of rhubarb and 500g (1lb) each of chopped onion, sultanas, malt vinegar and demerara sugar. Chutney making involves just two essential pieces of equipment; a large heavy-based saucepan and a sturdy wooden spoon. Try to avoid using copper, iron or aluminium utensils, as they will be eroded by the potent blend of acidic juices. Combine all the ingredients in a large pan, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a couple of hours. Apart from the occasional stir to prevent catching, it will take care of itself. Once thick and reduced and you are happy with the consistency, fill sterilised jars right to the top and seal the lids tightly.

For more see this month's issue, available to buy online!