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Jobs for January

Maintain paths and beds

More and more of us are growing in raised beds these days. There are pros and cons with them when compared with rows on a traditional open plot, but one of the distinct advantages is that the paths between the beds take the traffic so ensuring that the soil used for growing crops never becomes compacted. The paths can also offer all-weather access when working on winter veg – or when the summer is less than clement. However, paths of gravel or wood chippings often tend to become a breeding ground of weeds which take advantage of soil falling over the bed edges as you cultivate. This gets mixed in with the substrate so that even where you have soil-covering fabric beneath they can take root.

Now is the time to weed them – by hand preferably. A weedkiller can be used with care, but it is too late in the season for contact or systemic products to be very effective now and residual types, while ideal for keeping paths clean, are perhaps a little risky so close to edible crops.
Once the weeds are out of the way, top up any coverings to maintain the depth and suppress future weed growth.

The raised beds themselves may also need some patching. Timber edging and any pegs to which it is fixed should be treated with a plant-friendly preservative to prolong its life. On the KG plot we are lucky enough to have recycled UPVC edging (Link-A-Bord) which is now three years old and showing no signs of deterioration. This is of course maintenance free and easy to put together to make any size of bed you wish.

Tend to winter brassicas

Winter cabbage, sprouts and kale are among the few crops hardy enough to survive the winter unscathed – few things, even the brassica whitefly which cling on despite blizzards and gales all through the winter, bother them. Of course there are no butterflies to spoil your crops now although netting against the birds is still a must unless plants are very well established. However, even they may leave well-established plants alone as long as there is other food for them to eat.

Taller kales and Brussels sprouts are often damaged by winter winds however and should be staked to prevent wind rock and subsequent root damage. Trimming around the base of the stems with your heel can help also.

Any dead leaves should be removed from around the plants to discourage slugs and snails which may appear during mild spells and which will anyway use them as cover from the frost.

Sow parsley

Main sowings of parsley are usually made from February onwards indoors, with sowings outside commencing from March onwards. However, anyone who has allowed plants to self-seed outdoors will know just how hardy this useful herb and garnish can be. It is worth trying some early sowings indoors therefore on a bright windowsill now, either for planting out later or growing in pots indoors and picking as needed for the kitchen.

To improve germination it is often recommended to soak the seeds overnight to soften the seed coat, but be sure not to leave them in the water for too long or they will drown (even seeds need to breathe!).

Sow thinly over the surface of fresh sowing compost and cover lightly with the same compost. Cover the pot or tray with a propagator lid or polythene bag until the seedlings show through – usually about 10-14 days. Thereafter it is important to give the plants as much light as possible to prevent stretching although this can be overcome to a certain extent by burying the stems so that the seed leaves are just above the surface when pricking out.

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For lots more advice, see this month's issue, available to buy online!

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