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Cabbages

This month fruit and veg gardening expert, Joe Maiden, continues his new series by taking you back to basics with growing one of our most popular leafy crops

Cabbages are a member of the brassica family which also includes Brussels sprouts, kale and cauliflower and selected varieties will give continuity of cropping throughout the whole year. Varieties can be split into groups according to their season of harvest:

1) Early summer cabbages
2) Late summer cabbages
3) Winter cabbages (Savoy cabbage) and red cabbage
4) Spring cabbages Propagating early summer cabbages

Although early summer types can be sown outside in February given cloche protection, it is as well to sow them in the gentle heat of a greenhouse with a night temperature of not less than 4C (40F) from February and through March. I like to sow the seeds in a soil-less compost because of the dreaded club root disease which could be in garden soil (more on club root on p.49). For normal garden situations it is not necessary to sow a large number of seeds of one variety – you would soon fill your garden with cabbage plants that would all mature at the same time. It is far better to use varieties which will give you a continuity of cropping.

My method of sowing cabbage seeds is to use a 10cm (4in) pot filled with soil-less compost. I then water the compost well the night before sowing and allow it to drain. A 10cm (4in) pot is large enough to germinate 30 to 36 cabbage seedlings.

After sowing the seeds sieve a fine layer of compost over the top to a depth of 3mm (1⁄8in) approximately, then cover the pot with a sheet of newspaper (to avoid excessive drying out). After about four to six days the seedlings should have germinated and immediately after germination the newspaper should be removed. Stand the pot onto a shelf in the greenhouse, near to the glass to avoid the seedlings becoming drawn.

For good strong, healthy plants I think it is necessary to pot the plants into individual plant pots or cell pots. Using a soil-less compost pot the young seedlings before they have made their first true leaves and when the seedlings are approximately 2.5cm (1in) tall. Grow these on in the gentle warmth of the greenhouse for approximately 10 days before transferring to a cold frame; keep the frame ventilated to start the hardening off process prior to planting out.

Summer/autumn cabbages

Late summer and autumn maturing varieties can be sown out of doors in a prepared seed bed in March, April and May. Choose a site which you know to be clean and free from disease, rake the soil down to a fine tilth. Sow the seed in shallow drills 30cm (12in) apart and if the weather conditions are dry at this time of year, make sure the seedbed is kept moist until the seedlings have germinated. Many home gardeners favour the method of sowing in pots or cell trays and transplanting into individual pots as for the early summer cabbages, of course at this time of year no night heat is required.

The method for growing on and planting out is the same as for early summer cabbages.

Planting cabbages

Set the garden line and mark out the rows at the correct spacing by putting in a small garden cane. With a spade, take out a small depression 30cm (12in) square and 10cm (4in) deep. (See 'Planting distances' for details of spacings both in and between the rows for the various types). Into this depression place 56g (2oz) of Growmore fertiliser or pelleted chicken manure and work this well in with a trowel. With pot-grown plants take the plant out of the pot and plant into the depression. Make sure before planting the plants have been well watered in the pots. After planting, if the weather conditions are dry thoroughly soak the depression. Immediately after planting protect the depression from slugs and cabbage root fly by using the appropriate deterrent. This particular method of planting is one I have perfected over many years for all members of the brassica family.

The advantages are:

a) The plant is easy to water in the depression
b) The plant is easy to feed in the depression
c) It is easy to protect from pests and diseases
d) During the growing season as we hoe the area for weed control the depression fills with soil thus supporting the plant well.

After planting never allow the plants to dry out as cabbages need plenty of water especially when they are starting to head. Three weeks after planting apply 28g (1oz) of nitrochalk to each depression and water in. Six weeks after planting a further application of nitrochalk can be applied; continue to hoe through the plants to keep the weeds down.

Pests and diseases

Cabbages suffer from a number of pests and diseases. Of these the following are the most damaging:

Club root:
A soil-borne disease which can remain in the soil for many years to contaminate cabbages and related crops. Liming prior to planting to raise the pH above seven can help as can strict crop rotation and growing plants in pots for as long as possible prior to planting in infected land. The variety 'Kilaton F1' has good resistance to the disease as do a few other brassicas.

Cabbage white caterpillars:
The adults of the large and small white butterfly usually arrive from June onwards to lay eggs on the underside of the leaves. The hatching green caterpillars disperse and cause much damage to the leaves, also leaving behind an unpleasant, smelly frass.
Squash eggs and pick off the caterpillars as seen. Cover crops to protect against the adults and spray with an approved insecticide if necessary.

Cabbage root fly:
Small adult flies emerge from the soil from April onwards and lay eggs around the stems and these subsequently hatch and feed on the roots and stems of the plants causing them to wilt.

A cabbage collar made from felt, ground cover fabric or similar material and placed around the stem can help by forming a barrier between the soil and pest. There are no chemical controls available, but nematode-based biological controls can be obtained from specialists (see p.84-85).

Greenfly and whitefly:
Sap-sucking pests that may attack virtually all year round. Whitefly resemble tiny white moths and do not usually cause a great deal of harm. Greenfly can cause distortion if present in large numbers. Control with a suitable insecticide, repeating application as necessary.

Pigeons:
Probably the worst pest of all. Cover crops as soon as planted to protect them against marauding birds.

 

Spring cabbage

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sept

Oct

Nov

Dec

Sow

Plant

Harvest

 

Summer/autumn and red cabbage

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sept

Oct

Nov

Dec

Sow

Plant

Harvest

 

Winter cabbage

Month

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sept

Oct

Nov

Dec

Sow

Plant

Harvest

 

 

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