Back to basics: Peas

The memory still lingers of those days on my father’s allotment – such simple pleasures make a big impression. For this early summer variety, my father grew ‘Early Onward’ followed by ‘Onward’, both sown on the same day. There would be 14 days between the harvesting of both.

Soil preparation

Peas grow well on a good medium loam with some lime content to keep the pH at between 6.0 and 7.0. They grow well on most fertile soils so long as they have a good deep root run, which in turn tells us that the soil needs to be deeply dug and plenty of plant food added.

The best time to prepare for a crop of peas is October and I try to dig down to about 45cm (18in), being careful as I do so not to bring up any subsoil from the lower reaches. At the same time, I dig in plenty of well-rotted garden compost or farmyard manure and this preparation should give good drainage and also will act as a reservoir for moisture during the time when the plants are flourishing. Peas love moisture, but do not like their roots to grow in waterlogged conditions. After the October preparation, leave the soil for the winter weather, snow, rain and frost, to break the lumps down to form a good crumb structure for spring sowing.

In recent times, we have not had much severe weather, but this last winter we had over four weeks of snow, frost and very cold nights here in Yorkshire. My father said we always needed a hard winter to grow good peas and beans, as it killed off all the pests and diseases. I think he might have been right – the crops this year are very good.

Peas like lime, so in early February I apply a dusting to the area and let the rain wash this into the soil. If lime was applied when the first preparations were done and came into contact with the manure, a reaction would take place and all the nitrogen lost into the atmosphere.

Sowing

On the ground that was prepared in October and left to settle, on a drying day, take out a trench 30cm (1ft) wide and approx 15cm (6in) deep. To do this, set a garden line and with a draw hoe, pull the soil towards you. Then, taking a small garden rake, level the trench bottom. Sow the peas 5cm (2in) apart and with four rows along the trench. When sown, cover with 5cm (2in) of soil. Do not fill the trench level, but leave a depression; this will act as a watering and feeding area.

Growing on

During the growing season, hoe the area between the rows to keep down the weeds. Gradually, soil will filter back into the trench, giving good anchorage to the roots.

The only feed my peas get through the season is pelletised sheep manure – one handful to a yard run of row starting in the trench when I sow, then once every three weeks until flowering time. Rain and watering breaks down the pellets providing plant food to the roots; the wool fibres in the pellets keep away the slugs. Alternatively, you could feed with pelleted chicken manure or Growmore.

Watering

There is often enough moisture in the well-prepared soil to keep the plants happy until flowering time, and overwatering up to this time tends to give taller, thinner plants. Short stocky plants give more flowers and it is at flowering and podding time when the plants require frequent watering to make every pod swell to full capacity.
When the pods are ready for picking, hold the plant with one hand and disconnect the pod with your other hand; do this gently so as not to weaken the root system.

Supporting the plants

I do believe even the most compact varieties require some support to keep the pea pods from being soiled. Branches of twigs cut in winter time and tied in bundles ready for use when you require them are a good idea. When cutting branches, select the size you require to match the variety to be grown. At the same time, cut some straight pieces for strengthening the branches in a row. String and wire can also be used to strengthen the supports.

I am lucky to have birch trees growing on my boundary and they benefit greatly from having their branches thinned each year. These branches are fantastic – the framework of birch is ideal for the job, plus all the twiggy bits are useful too. I have also got hazel trees growing, which again make very good supports. Of course, you need permission from the landowner to cut branches, but if you talk to a tree surgeon, I am sure you will find plenty of waste branches.

If you don’t have a supply of twiggy pea sticks to hand, then you could use wire or plastic netting supported with canes. Some varieties, especially the older ones, can reach 1.8-2.4m (6-8ft) in height, while many modern types are more compact at half that, so you’ll need to build your supports accordingly. The seed packet will tell you how high your peas are likely to grow.

When to support

As mentioned before, when sowing, protect with wire mesh to stop bird damage. Then, as the peas germinate and grow to 5cm (2in), remove the mesh and position your supports. For extra protection from the birds, place black cotton at the base; just wind this into your supports. When a bird touches the cotton, which it cannot see, it is disturbed and flies away. Use a soft cotton which breaks easily and does not tangle around the birds’ feet.

Very early peas

I like to sow ‘Feltham First’ in September or October; I use plastic segmented trays and sow six seeds into each segment. Alternatively, you could use Rootrainers, sowing one seed per cell. The segments are planted out on the sheltered plot once the plants are well established and before they become tangled. I plant a segment without splitting, then leave about 10cm (4in) between segments in the row. Sowing six seeds to each segment allows for any losses during the winter and you can expect fresh garden peas in early May.

A treat for the gardener

When hanging baskets have passed their best in early autumn, bring them into the greenhouse and strip out the plants. Refresh the compost and sow 16 seeds to a 40cm (16in) diameter hanging basket, using an early variety such as ‘Feltham First’ or ‘Early Onward’. Hang the basket in a cold greenhouse and simply let the plants grow and hang down.

Sowing in a hanging basket and hanging it 1.8m (6ft) or so off the ground really does confuse the mice, and what a treat for the gardener at the end of April. You can also sow in large pots in the polytunnel for an extra early crop. (See Joe’s feature on growing in florist’s buckets and pots in KG August, 2010).

Joe’s favourite varieties

Good early varieties

‘Meteor’: A very dwarf variety, so excellent for more exposed areas. Well-filled pods with six to eight peas per pod.

‘Twinkle’: Heavy-cropping variety with good wilt and downy mildew resistance. Sow in succession for summer-long cropping. Height 45-55cm (18-22in).

‘Little Marvel’: Very sweet flavour. Dwarf variety ideal for June sowing. Height 75cm (30in).

‘Kelvedon Wonder’: Heavy crops of small peas good for successional cropping. Height 45cm (18in).

‘Early Onward’: Blunt-ended pods; firm favourite over many years. Often produces nine peas per pod.

Second early types

‘Greensage’: A semi-leafless variety, good clinging ability. The long, pointed pods often produce 10 peas. Height 75cm (30in)

‘Hurst Green Shaft’: My favourite variety; producing pods in pairs, sometimes with 10 or 11 peas to a pod. Height 75cm (30in).

Maincrop to late varieties
‘Lincoln’: Curved long-pointed pods, 10 to 11 peas per pod. Height approx 90cm (3ft).

‘Ambassador’: Dark green blunt pods, excellent resistance to powdery mildew and pea wilt. Height 105cm (42in). Can crop very late in the season.

‘Onward’: The seed companies tell me this is still the most popular of garden peas. Height 60cm (24in).

Try something a bit different

How many peas do you like on your plate... about 48? Well that is just four pods if you get 12 peas in a pod, as you might with the variety ‘Show Perfection’. This is the variety that exhibitors use and can grow up to 2.4m (8ft) tall.

I tie them up 2.4m (8ft) canes and grow them on a single stem. They can crop over a very long period producing deliciously sweet peas. I sow in module trays one per cell and when 5cm (2in) high they are planted one to each cane, 23cm (9in) apart in the row. Showmen grow these on a single stem taking out the sideshoots and removing the tendrils so all the energy goes into the pods. For the table I have grown some fantastic crops of ‘Show Perfection’ on large wigwams or silver birch twigs.

Mangetout peas

Very popular in restaurants, it is an edible podded pea which requires no shelling.

‘Carouby de Mousanne’: Attractive purple flowers giving rise to large pods up to 11cm (4in) long, good sweet flavour. Height 150cm (5ft).

‘Dwarf Sugar’: Pick and cook whole when about 4cm (11⁄2in) long to achieve wonderful sweetness. Plant height 60cm (2ft)

Sugar snap types

The great advantage of this type is you can pick over a long season.

‘Delikett’: Round pods which can be eaten young or allowed to develop and eaten as fully rounded pods when you can shell them and eat the seeds. Height 75cm (30in).

‘Sugar Snap’: An excellent variety producing tall plants 120-150 cm (4-5ft). Pods 8cm (3in) long with a very sweet flavour.

‘Waverex’: A petit pois type producing very heavy yields of pods, very tiny, extremely sweet peas. Resistant to fusarium wilt. Height 60cm (2ft).

Pest and diseases

Powdery mildew: Seen as a white powdery coating over the leaves which start in patches, later spreading to the whole leaf. Choose a resistant variety such as ‘Ambassador’.

Downy mildew: Yellow patches develop on the upper surface of the leaf with grey mould beneath, usually in humid conditions. Choose a resistant variety and allow space between plants for air to circulate.

Birds: Use netting to protect newly sown seeds and young plants.

Mice: Mice may dig up the seeds or nibble the young shoots. Use your favoured form of rodent control.

Pea and bean weevil: Eats notches from the edges of the leaves. Seldom causes serious damage except on small seedlings. Larger plants usually tolerate the pest. Sowing in trays gives plants a head start and well fed, vigorous plants usually outgrow any damage.

Fusarium wilt: Plants wilt despite being damp at the roots and the stems may blacken at the base. Plants may dry out and become straw coloured. Choose a resistant variety such as ‘Ambassador’ or ‘Waverex’.